n/naka, the internationally renowned fine dining restaurant in Palms, LA, was one of six Los Angeles County restaurants to be awarded two stars in the 2019 edition of the prestigious Michelin Guide.
The guide, which has served as a reference for culinary adventurers for more than a century, deemed the kaiseki style eatery as having “"Excellent cooking, worth a detour," with its two star designation.
“Los Angeles-born chef, Niki Nakayama, is a proud pioneer in the modern kaiseki tradition, yet she’s humble enough to remain a constant in her dining room, checking in on each guest to ensure their every comfort,” according the guide. “In this way, the much-lauded restaurant feels utterly personal, as though for this moment in time, you are the only diner that matters.”
The celebrated restaurant itself is actually quite inconspicuous, resembling a raw concrete slab nestled between a stark lawyer’s office and a whimsical psychic’s shop, with the eccentric headquarters of ALCHEMY (formerly National Promotions and Advertising) across the street stealing much of the attention on Palms Blvd. and Overland Ave. Drive by and you’ll miss it. Blink and you won’t remember it. Stare at it too long and you’ll be taken by the uncanny bonsai landscaping that adorns the rust-colored entrance - a hint of the strange and delicate gastronomical wonders waiting inside.
Built in the former shell of the Imagen Day Spa and Salon, n/naka was designed by Tak Toda of TSL Designs. Toda, whose clients include theme parks, large hotel chains, and casinos, went the opposite direction of his usual grand designs to complete the subdued, simple and intimate interior of n/naka. With handmade wooden tables and chairs by Mario Correa and one-of-a-kind ceramic plates, patrons are directed to engage with their food (and each other) for maximum enjoyment of the space and cuisine.
When chef Nikki Nakayama first opened her restaurant in 2011, she casually took reservations for n/naka’s 26 seats on her personal cell-phone, with space usually available even during the weekends. The calm quickly disappeared however, when Nakayama was featured on Netflix’s critically acclaimed series Chef’s Table (that erroneously attributed n/naka to Culver City, which coincidentally is home to another two-star Michelin restaurant, Vespertine). Soon, fine diners from all over converged onto Palms, eager to have a seat at Nakayama’s table.
Reservations are booked months in advance, and quickly sell out. Nikki Nakayama, and her wife and sous chef Carole Iida, have become celebrities in the Los Angeles culinary community.
Despite their fame and success, Nakayama admits having to still work through “imposter syndrome” due to her years of hard experience in the cut-throat industry of fine dining cuisine.
“I think when people see myself, or someone like Carole, they might think we're not absolutely serious about what we're doing, because we don't fit that 'chef' persona.” said Nakayama in an article about female Asian chefs.
Through it all, Nakayama has continued to remain humble in her reputation and generous in her spirit. She still goes out of her way to make sure each of her guests enjoys a specific tasting menu tailored to their dietary needs and tastes, and recently served as the culinary consultant for the hit Netflix romantic comedy Always Be My Maybe, starting Ali Wong and Randall Park. Nakayama and Wong have since become fast friends - Nakayama even borrowed one of Wong’s designer gowns for the ceremony announcing n/naka’s Michelin Stars.
Ever humble, Nakayama thanked her staff after the win. "We are a team of 20 people, 13 women and seven men," Nakayama said through tears of joy. "This could only happen in California."
If you are interested in dining at n/naka, plan to wait about three months to score a reservation. The 13 course, pre-fix menu runs about $200-$225 and the staff are happy to accommodate certain dietary restrictions and special requests.
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